ABBQ is a recent addition to the Jacksonville barbecue scene, so I naturally had to check it out. I will willingly admit that even before visiting I was a little leery of their claim to serve "Central Texas BBQ at the beach". Seems like everyone around here is claiming "Texas Style", even if they don't know what that means. So I was extra suspicious when I saw a sign touting authentic Texas something or other as I parked next to a plastic wood fence and walked inside.
I was able to park because I visited for a weekday lunch. Parking is very limited here, and word is it is hard to find a spot on evenings and weekends. They do offer valet parking during those times. (I won't claim it never happens, but when I picture a Texas barbecue joint, valet parking isn't usually in the picture. But more about that later.) The inside, on the other hand, is very spacious. Both the indoor dining and outdoor backyard offer plenty of seating options.
Ordering and seating was a little confusing because everything I read said they had counter service, and there is a counter, but there was also a sign saying to wait to be seated. However, I was quickly greeted and told to sit wherever I liked. As it was one of the first pleasant blue sky days of fall, I chose a spot on the patio where I was quickly provided with a menu and a glass of water.
I wanted to sample as much as I could, so I chose the "1513 Sandwich" which includes pulled pork, brisket and sausage, along with cole slaw and pickles. I asked for the sauce on the side so I could sample the meats in their natural state, then added a side of potato salad and a sweet tea to round out the meal.
I methodically deconstructed my sandwich (it was far to big to eat whole anyway) by first sampling the sausage, which they make themselves. Even in small slices it had great texture, the crisp pop of the skin contrasting with the juicy interior for a quick burst of perfect flavor. The brisket lived up to the billing as well. I'm not sure if it was intentional, but my sandwich had one slice that was lean and one more fatty, so I got to try both. Regardless, both were excellently smoked specimens of that most famous staple of Texas barbecue. When I got down to the pork, it wasn't quite as amazing as it seemed to be a little lacking in flavor. There wasn't anything really wrong with it, it was more like it just didn't steal the show like the other two meats. But with a little of the tangy sauce- another check for the authentic Texas claim- it too was delicious.
The potato salad was some of the best I'd ever had. Creamy mayo met red potatoes in a glorious union, along with a surprise guest. Whatever else I have to say about this place, there's no doubt they know food. They know what it's worth as well. My basic meal set me back 20 bucks. It was worth that for sure, but I don't know how many working class people like myself are comfortable with that price point for a weekday lunch.
And so can you see why I am incredibly conflicted in deciding how to rate them. Service was good, the food was excellent, but it was definitely a mixed bag as far as authenticity goes. Authenticity is a big deal to me, and since that's what they claim, I feel obliged to factor that in my rating. I'm not a complete expert on Texas barbecue myself, but I know the basics. So let's review the points for and against.
What makes them authentic?
Wood-fired smokers (custom from Moberg in Texas, according to their site)
That brisket perfection
Dang good homemade sausage
Thin, simple sauce that complements them well
Counter service (maybe sometimes?)
Meats available by the pound
What says this ain't your regular Texas 'que joint?
Uh- plastic wood anything
Valet parking
$20 sandwich and side
Another "outhouse" sign with a crescent moon- puhleez
Absence of cowboy hats or country music-but please
note if these were used as props, the result would be worse
The only way I know to handle this, and I've been considering this for a while, is to add a "Authenticity Rating" to my reviews. To me, this is more about being real than meeting specific criteria. Every barbecue place has it's own persona, and I personally am much more drawn to the ones who have their own story instead of trying to convince me that they are like something else. So I will add this line to my reviews, starting now, and you can use it or not as you choose.
In this case, I would have no problem if they marketed themselves as a trendy, slightly upscale restaurant that serves Texas-style barbecue. There are several of those, and honestly, ABBQ does it better than most in my opinion. If that's your thing, you need to eat here. Just maybe wear the good pair of jeans, leave the dirty truck at home, and be sure you've got a high credit limit.
FOOD: 4.5 OF 5
AUTHENTICITY: 2.5 OF 5
OVERALL: 4 OF 5
HOURS
No comments:
Post a Comment